Day 38 Thursday 25th September, Nashville to Georgetown (near Lexington) Kentucky

Today we left our condo in Nashville and headed out towards Lexington in Kentucky.  We started the day by following Interstate Highway 65 north towards Kentucky.  The interstates are not much fun with all the trucks but we had a fair distance to travel and thought we would get some miles under our belt before taking some of the prettier back roads. Also by following a major route we had a better chance of finding a Welcome Centre which we have discovered as a little gem - clean modern restrooms and very helpful friendly staff with some great ideas for routes to take.  We also get free maps of the state and therefore a State map for Kentucky is our next goal.

Entering Kentucky

On the I65: they really don't need to appear any closer as they already tend to travel all to close
and over the speed limit!

A map and some general information was provided by the Centre at Franklin just over the Kentucky border. As recommended at the Welcome Centre we travelled a little further on to Bowling Green for brunch and a break.

Someone has a secret?  We think they are yet to be released Camaro's.

Adult bookshops nearly outnumber churches.....

From Bowling Green we continued north to Elizabethtown where we turned easterly along the Bluegrass Parkway. This took us through some picturesque countryside on the way to Lexington. 

Scenery on the parkway near Lexington

Our overnight stop is in Georgetown where we are staying on a B&B horse stud in Georgetown. 

Lake at the rear of the B&B

Sun set and a glass of wine in hand, all very hard to take really.

Panorama of land around B&B

Harley and Hank chill out after a hard day in the back seat, complete with very friendly Border Collies Skye and Maddie

Day 37 Wednesday 24th September, Nashville, Tennessee

Had our "free breakfast this morning" starting at 9 am but their concept of time is poor to say the least - we were still being "entertained" at 12.30pm and I finally spat the dummy.  We did get our $ USD 150 but the time they took was not appropriate and we let them know it.  It did include a tour of 2 apartments as well as the video and sales spiel.  It was  interesting seeing other rooms. 

We then took the shuttle bus downtown again - it was most convenient.  Meet a young couple staying at the resort who had been married last Saturday and were on their honeymoon - I don't remember being so young or doe eyed. 

After a bit more of a walk around we visited the Country Music Hall of Fame - which was very extensive and covered from the very beginning up to modern day.  We had also planned on visiting the RCA recording studio but it was booked out  - word for the future  - need to book in advance next time.

The CMHF is huge and spans 3 floors with an optional audio guide which explains all the exhibits.

Main hall of the CMHF, memorabilia, videos on the left and archive storage on the right.  

The Museum also holds the largest collection, approximately 500,000, Country and Western recordings (including some very early film) and a large collection of memorabilia. The archive is available for research and study. Two hours passed by without us even realising it. They also have a couple of huge walls covered in gold and platinum records from all the stars.

Part of one of the huge walls of gold and platinum records

The display starts with some history on where the music began with a fusion of English Folk music and Gospel and then moves on through the many early artists that shaped the early songs into the various types of Country such as Bluegrass etc. Eventually to the current development and growth areas of the current day.

Carter Family Plaque in Hall of Fame

Dolly Parton's dresses from when she performed with Kenny Rogers, his shirt (behind) is nearly as big as her dress. She is a tiny lady with the smallest waist!

Wouldn't Vic roads love this with its six gun and rifle protrusions

Some of the more unusual instruments in the display

Had to be an "Alvis" somewhere in this trip.....

After this we went to the apparently "world famous" Jacks BBQ Ribs on Broadway for dinner (Ribs were excellent by the way) before catching the shuttle bus back to the resort for a relaxing glass of wine (or two!).

Don't know what to make of this, it appears to be a bar that is pedalled by its patrons, we didn't try it.

Day 36 Tuesday 23th September, Nashville, Tennessee

Deliberately slow start this morning, after a leisurely cup of tea (no breakfast - so Dale was quite happy) we visited the tourist info centre at reception.  We are staying at the Wyndham Resort - a time share facility although I booked it through Expedia from one of the time share owners.  Naturally they are "keen to talk to us" and will give us $ USD 150 if we agree to come to breakfast and watch a video.  I said sure with no intention of buying - if they want to fling money about then we are happy to catch it.  That's tomorrow morning - should be interesting!

We decided to take the shuttle bus, ($10/ each round trip) into downtown. Parking is expensive in Nashville and traffic is terrible according to two locals we have come across.  Something that becomes quickly apparent is that people here are noticeably less friendly than those in the south.

We had lunch on a balcony in a bar called “Rippys Ribs” overlooking Broadway Street (the main drag in downtown Nashville).  The onion rings were both superb and enormous - they are up there with Charlie's Diner.  Three country and western musicians were playing and they were excellent - there is a lot of talent in this town.

Part of Broadway from the balcony of Rippy's Ribs

After brunch we walked the length of Broadway down to the river before returning and doing a tour of the Ryman Auditorium.

The Ryman was originally The Union Gospel Tabernacle. It was financed and built by Thomas Ryman, a riverboat pilot. He went to see evangelist Samuel P Junes speak and intended to heckle but was so impressed he built him a hall to preach in. On Ryman’s death it was suggested the hall be re-named in his honour which was immediately.

Ryman Auditorium

The Ryman is best known for being the home of the Grand Olde Opry for about 50 years but also hosted many greats as diverse as Charlie Chaplin, Pavarotti,Caruso and Louis Armstrong.

When recording his TV Show Johnny Cash told the ABC he would only do it if it happened at the Ryman. They, at first, refused saying it wasn’t set up for modern recording and was too hot. He replied saying that he was sure they could deal with the technical issues and he could stand the heat if they could. The shows were very successful and he played to packed houses. The acoustics are said to be better than Carnegie hall.

Looking at the stage from the balcony of the Ryman theatre

The Grand Old Opry eventually grew too big and moved to more modern facilities and the Ryman stood empty. Eventually it was decided to restore it and it once again holds regular concerts with the likes of Keith Urban, Pink Floyd and Bruce Springsteen all having played there.

One of Marty Robins jackets.  He wore this when performing on the "Grand Olde Opry". Marty sang at the Opry from 1953 till 1982 and liked to play last so he could drive at the Stock Car Races then rush to the Opry to perform. It also meant he could keep playing until late depending on the audience.

From today Harley now has a friend called Hank. 

Day 35 Monday 22th September, Memphis to Nashville, Tennessee

On the road again!

We decided to use state highway 64 which sort of goes east across the southern part of Tennessee. This would then enable us to follow the Natchez Trace Parkway north to Nashville.

Highway 64 was very picturesque and once we got out of Memphis and overall had little traffic. The route took us through Oakland, Somerville, and Savannah where we crossed the Tennessee River.

Davey Crockett Pass on Highway 64

Once on the Natchez Trace Parkway, a really beautiful road which follows the historic trail used by travellers in the 1800's. In a few spots we took a detour to enable us to follow accessible parts of the original trail. The parkway has none of the businesses, homes or fast food outlets of any other roadway system - it is simply beautiful forest with a small amount of farming.

Natchez Trace Parkway

Commemoration stone on the Trace

Maritta ponders the scenery near one of the side roads along the original Trace

A car accessible section of the old Trace

A section of the old Trace which is now a walking track

Nearing Nashville we left the Parkway and wandered through a few small towns until we got on I65 and then followed various Interstates to circle the city to our accommodation.

Eagle spied along the way

Harley enjoys the view

Topiary and garden sculpture at our accommodation for the next few days

More topiary - very creative!

Day 34 Sunday 21th September, Memphis, Tennessee

Today we are alone once again.  Dale had a great week with male company while on the boat and now he has just me once again.....

Historic Beale St after dinner last night with some new friends we met on the boat

Our hotel is across the road from a lovely park - we are seeing a lot of squirrels scampering about - they are not that concerned about people moving about the park. 

Park outside our Hotel on Front Street

Today we decided to visit the National Museum of Civil Rights which is located in the Lorraine Hotel where Dr Martin Luther King Jr was assassinated outside his room and the Memphis Rock and Soul Museum, Sun Records and if time permits the Gibson Guitar factory. 

For the princely sum of $1 pp our trolley bus driver dropped us off right outside the National Civil Rights Museum and we had a look at the outside displays and movies covering the assassination before approaching the door. We hadn’t read the pamphlet very well and discovered that on Sunday’s it didn’t open till 1pm (it was about 11:15am when we arrived). "Not happy, Jan".  It is getting hotter and humidity is high again.  It is physically wearing......

So we decided to walk about 5 blocks to the Rock and Soul Museum. This museum is dedicated to the various styles of music which came out of the Memphis area and gave some insight into how and why they evolved. The display itself is fantastic with many exhibits of early types of music recording and playing equipment. You are provided with a small audio device and all the displays have numbers which the device explains to you in considerable detail. Also many of the displays have songs and music attached to them which can also be played.   A very interesting worthwhile place to visit.

Juke box for playing 78's with the part of the original transmitter from "Grand Olde Oprey" in the background

A couple of hours later we walked back to the Civil Rights Museum down Beale Street.   It is not quite the same during the day but still a buzz.

Beale St by Day, not nearly so colourful but still lively.

At the National Civil Rights Museum the displays deal with the plight of the black African people and their struggle for freedom after being freed from slavery. The display has a lot of information but at times tends to be a little repetitive. The display occupies both the hotel where Dr M.L. King Jr was shot and the boarding house where the shot was fired from.

Lorraine Hotel where Dr M. L. King Jr was assassinated

View of the balcony from the boarding house where the killer was positioned.

Part of the Civil Rights display depicting the public transport boycott

After this we had both had enough walking and another $1 on the bus and our driver even made a small detour and dropped us outside our hotel.

Tonight we opted for local pizza - quite nice change from the meal recently. 

Day 33 Saturday 20th September, Memphis, Tennessee

This morning is our last morning on board and we only need to go to the airport to pick up our hire car so we didn't need to do the early rise with some of the other passengers. 

We are staying in Memphis for the next couple of days. BUT today Dale decided to come to breakfast really so we could say our goodbyes to a lot of lovely people we have had the privilege to travel with this week.  We have made some friends here and we are hoping to keep in touch. 

We finally left the Boat after a bit of confusion with cab arrangements and headed out to the airport to collect our hire car. We then drove back to the Welcome Centre for some more information on the city and recommended sights.  Today is hot and humid - the general feeling is that the weather is a bit screwed up as it shouldn't be quite so humid now.  Hoping for relief as we move north over the next week.

Decorated egg commemorating the Faberge eggs brought out as part of the Russian artifacts tour last year. 
This is just outside the Welcome Centre.

View of the "Queen of the Mississippi" from the monorail operating between Mud Island and Memphis.

We then caught the monorail over to Mud Island so we could walk along the scale model of the Mississippi River. This is a reasonable accurate map of the river (given that it changes from time to time) in a scale of 30 inches equals 1 mile. This might seem small but the model still stretches for about ½ mile. The model includes depictions of major towns like New Orleans and Baton Rouge and even has water running in it, the depth varies to show channels etc and is extremely well done. It was made of 1,746 separate concrete sections weighing 81/2 tons each and assemble like a giant jigsaw puzzle. An average 1.2 Million gallons of water flows through the system (Dale does like his stats!).

Mississippi sculpture, Gulf of Mexico end

Centre part of the model viewed from 3 stories up

Even the depth and flood plains are depicted

Near Vicksburg showing how the River has moved, during the Civil War the River ran in the narrow channel close to the city on the model

Shows how the river twists and turns

Near Baton Rouge

Headwaters of the Mississippi

Tonight we had a BBQ Rib dinner at the Rendezvous (the place to go!) with some great people we met on the boat - Chuck and Nancy (Washington Sate); Bill and Sheron (Washington State); Don and Judy Gold Coast Australia.  This a messy feed but delicious.  We were supposed to meet them at the Peabody Hotel to see the ducks leaving th elobby pond to go to bed at 5 pm but got a little lost around Peabody Place.  Oh well maybe tomorrow....... 

Taking advantage of the warm evening we walked to famous Beale Street to take in the atmosphere as this is the heartland of the blues.  Perhaps a little early but the night life was starting up and the street is blocked every Friday and Saturday with police out in force. I imagine it would be jumping around midnight but there was no way we would be able to stay awake given the walking we had done today.